Unmissable restaurants
Le Petit Vendôme
8 rue des Capucines, Paris 2
It doesn’t get much more French than this. Andouillette, Beaujolais nouveau, gherkins, and semi-salted butter make up the menu. Like nature, this restaurant abhors a vacuum, since the tables are practically glued together, but the atmosphere is very warm. I really like this place, which contrasts with the majestic gravity of Place Vendôme, just a stone's throw away.
Le Duc
243 boulevard Raspail, Paris 14
A Parisian institution founded in 1967, Le Duc was the first raw fish restaurant in Paris. I believe it was here that salmon tartare was invented, and Japanese preparations were studied at an early stage. Still run by the same family, the restaurant has stood the test of time admirably: its liner-like architecture never goes out of fashion. It's certainly an investment, but one emerges transformed.
Le 404
69 rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3
I really like this restaurant serving popular Maghreb cuisine. It serves my favorite couscous in Paris. My favorite tagines too, to tell the truth. I go there as much for the atmosphere and the welcome as for the food. In summer, the terrace is pleasant: an inner courtyard shared with another restaurant.
Double Dragon
52 rue Saint-Maur, Paris 11
A restaurant founded by two sisters serving Filipino-inspired mixed cuisine. Organic products, natural wines, and unique dishes – the restaurant ticks all the boxes. The last time I went there, it was 40 degrees and I almost fainted from a chili pepper, but I still have fond memories of it.
Favorite watering holes
La Buvette
67 rue Saint-Maur, Paris 11
Les Arlots
136 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris 10
Le Tourville
1 place de l'École Militaire, Paris 7
Ritz Paris
15 place Vendôme, Paris 1
I like wine bars. At La Buvette, rue Saint Maur, not far from Double Dragon, seating is limited and reservations are not required, but you'll find great natural wines and great food to share. I also recommend Les Arlots, in the 10th arrondissement, which is more spacious. When I spend time near the Grand Palais Éphémère, which is often, I enjoy an aperitif on the Tourville terrace, and for special occasions, I never turn down a cocktail at the Ritz bar.
Nightlife
As I travel a lot for fairs and cultural events, I sometimes feel I know more about bars and clubs in other cities. In Paris, I have a two-year-old son who oversees every aspect of my nightlife. But other members of the Paris team will be able to tell you all about it.
Best places to catch the sunset
Butte Bergeyre
Rue Georges Lardennois, Paris 19
Belvédère de Belleville
27 rue Piat, Paris 20
Place de la Concorde, Paris 8
I live in the 19th arrondissement, near the Butte Bergeyre, the western part of which faces the Sacré-Coeur. I've seen some beautiful sunsets there. The same goes for the belvedere in Parc de Belleville. I'd recommend the open spaces, which are few and far between in Paris, which is a densely populated city. Place de la Concorde is one of them.
Top tip for first-time visitors
At the risk of giving bad advice, I think we too often resist the idea of visiting tourist spots. I believe they are part of a city's influence for a reason. So yes, I'd visit all the museums, yes, I'd go and see the Eiffel Tower, and so on.
Clément Delépine is the director of Paris+ par Art Basel. The 2023 edition will take place from October 20 to 22 at the Grand Palais Éphémère.
Published on October 3, 2023.
Caption for full-bleed images, from top to bottom: 1, 2. La Buvette, rue Saint-Maur. 3. Place Vendôme. 4. Champ de Mars. All photos and videos by Aliki Christoforou for Art Basel.