Jesse Bratter

Where to eat, drink, and sleep in Miami

Discover a curated selection of restaurant and hotel reservations you’ll want to make during your Miami Art Week romp


Where to dine


L’atelier de Joël Robuchon: the art of cuisine

Sultry interiors enveloped in crimson lacquer and cherry wood lure guests inside L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, the two-Michelin-starred legacy of the late decorated French chef Joël Robuchon. Chef’s counter seating with an open-kitchen concept and dramatic presentations foster an intimate, theatrical, and interactive dining affair in the heart of the Miami Design District.

‘Guests can select from tasting menus or opt for an à la carte experience, which is not commonly available in traditional French fine dining,’ says Deleon Pinto, chief operating officer of parent restaurant group The Bastion Collection. ‘Our Evolution tasting menu honors the classic Joël Robuchon dishes including his elevated mashed potatoes, and our Seasonal tasting menu highlights locally sourced ingredients that are in season.’ From wild-caught fish with wasabi and lime in a Champagne emulsion to filet mignon with baby carrot, braised leek, and vadouvan-spiced cauliflower and Black Forest chocolate crémeux with cherries and Kirsh Chantilly – each served with delicate, choreographed precision – every dish is a work of art that indulges all the senses.

This year, Art Basel and the MICHELIN Guide join forces to offer a premium dining experience for Art Basel's guests in Miami. The chefs at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon will personally welcome guests and share insights into the dishes, providing a one-of-a-kind dining experience (secure your seat here). 

Courtesy of Branja.
Courtesy of Branja.

Branja: a time machine

Nestled within the delightfully unexpected bohemian enclave of Upper Buena Vista, Branja invites guests to step back in time to 1970s Tel Aviv. A voluminous stained-glass atrium houses a main dining room that exudes major retro vibes, referencing Tel Aviv’s indoor-outdoor train stations, cathedrals, and ancient synagogues (in a most literal sense – some of the seating was created using reclaimed synagogue benches). But the real magic happens inside at the Chef’s Table, repurposed from the bar once in the Delano’s Florida Room famously designed by Lenny Kravitz.

Chef and co-owner Tom Aviv and his team infuse an explosion of Israeli and global flavors into each dish using locally sourced ingredients. Try the beet-cured salmon with sour cream and horseradish, the Fishwarma (a fish mélange with labneh tahini and mango amba), and the Halva Crack Pie (pistachio and tahini pie with creme fraiche). And don’t be surprised if Chef joins you for a friendly chat between courses. ‘Branja is a carefully curated space where we do more than simply enjoy food,’ says Aviv, winner of MasterChef Israel 2016. ‘We also digest conversation and tradition while we savor the aesthetics of our surroundings subconsciously. With the concept of breaking bread together as a centerfold, the menu has been curated based on the idea of shareability.’

Left: Pistachio Baklava at Doya. Right: Doya outdoor patio. Photographs Daniel Zuliani.
Left: Pistachio Baklava at Doya. Right: Doya outdoor patio. Photographs Daniel Zuliani.

Doya: Mediterranean magic

On the outside, Doya fits right in with its Wynwood neighbors thanks to the bold, graphic art on its facade. But inside, you’re instantly transported through a modern Mediterranean dining experience that marries the flavors of Greece and Turkey. An extensive menu of meze-style small plates allows guests to sample a variety of fresh, seasonal dishes showcasing executive chef partner Erhan Kostepen’s wood-fired and open-flame grilling techniques that have earned Doya the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand. Signature items include roasted cauliflower with tahini, pomegranate, and paprika sauce; manti beef dumplings with garlic yogurt and burnt butter; and kadaifi with white chocolate yogurt mousse, fresh citrus salad, cassis foam, and thyme ice cream. A partnership between Kostepen, Jerry Böck and Rob van den Blink, Doya brings an authentic taste of the Aegean without leaving Miami.

El Salón: a European hideaway

A network of enchanting Spanish-style paseos connects the eight buildings that comprise Esmé, a 1920s bohemian artists’ colony-turned-boutique hotel on Española Way in South Beach. With chic interiors designed by Jessica Shuster, endless moments of discovery await. And that’s especially true in El Salón, an intimately glamorous bar serving up bites, music, and creative mixology. Think handcrafted cocktails (such as the Grasshopper with crème de menthe, crème de cacao, cream, and nutmeg), house-made spirit blends (the extraordinary Anejo, with roasted agave, vanilla, toffee, oak, and tobacco), and small plates (charred lobster tostada with avocado, shiso slaw, huitlacoche agave salsa macha, pineapple cream, and Zamorano cheese).

‘El Salón embodies the eclectic nature of a speakeasy while offering programming that ranges from a high-energy lounge to live entertainment, including renowned DJs, local comedians, and musicians,” says Esmé’s creative director, Alex Julian. ‘The decor is a nod to lounges you’d stumble upon in Paris and Hollywood 100 years ago, with a sultry and moody feel.’

Left: Courtesy El Salón. Photograph Jen Castro. Right: Courtesy of Pastis.
Left: Courtesy El Salón. Photograph Jen Castro. Right: Courtesy of Pastis.

Pastis: a taste of Paris

Wynwood recently welcomed a new addition to the neighborhood: Pastis, the Parisian-minded brasserie born in New York’s Meatpacking District and brought to life by James Beard Award-winning restaurateurs Keith McNally and Stephen Starr. French-inspired interiors transport (picture globe pendants, white subway tiles, a curved zinc bar, mosaic flooring, leaded- glass cabinetry, tin ceiling panels, red leather banquette seating, and bistro chairs), setting the scene for an equally French menu of classic favorites from king crab to steak frites and vanilla bean creme brulée.

Celosa tequila. Courtesy of Mr Chow.
Celosa tequila. Courtesy of Mr Chow.

Mr Chow: understated opulence

Mr Chow offers a sleek, elegant backdrop of crisp white and cobalt blue interiors from inside the W South Beach. A collection of indoor and outdoor private rooms, an alfresco dining terrace, and an interior bar and lounge featuring Paloma limestone and a 123-foot-long Swarovski crystal chandelier create a lavishly modern environment for guests to enjoy upscale, authentic Beijing fare. Order the signature Mr Chow noodles, Ma Mignon, and duck dishes, and wash it down with the Highroller cocktail – an elevated tequila sip made with Celosa tequila, blood orange liqueur, and velvet falernum, topped off with Champagne. Celosa, an organic joven rosa tequila, is rested in red wine barrels from Napa Valley, which softens the tequila and, in turn, gives it a silky finish and its distinctive blush hue.

Courtesy of Red Rooster.
Courtesy of Red Rooster.

Red Rooster: a historic homage

When chef Marcus Samuelsson won a bid to reimagine and revitalize the Clyde Killens Pool Hall on Northwest Second Avenue in Overtown, the history-rich neighborhood in downtown Miami known as the Harlem of the South, he proceeded with great respect for the stories that have originated there over the years. Legendary names like Muhammad Ali, Aretha Franklin, Count Basie, and Jackie Robinson have all passed through, and so the Miami iteration of Red Rooster pays homage to the area and to Black history through a curated selection of art and music. ‘We conducted vast research in learning about the history of the establishment and what it meant to Overtown for our design inspiration,’ says the restaurant’s designer, Sean Saladino of Saladino Design Studios. ‘We realized the rich history needed to echo the spirit of Overtown and its guests by curating works by artists such as Rashid Johnson and Kara Walker.’

HaSalon: culture club

Eyal Shani brings his signature concept HaSalon to Miami Beach, offering two inventive menus during separate seatings (one item is called ‘Snapper skewers drifting in a bath of tomato foam and yogurt’ and another, ‘Spinach melting into its own leaves, swirled in a cloud of Parmesan’). The collaboration with Major Food Group – the restaurateurs behind Carbone and ZZ’s Club – brings a unique cultural blend to the area, providing a vibrant new dining experience of Mediterranean cuisine in an atmosphere of music and laughter (‘ha salon’ means ‘the living room’ in Hebrew). While first launched in Tel Aviv, the eatery feels tailor-made for locals and visitors craving a lively culinary destination.

Where to stay

The Miami Beach Edition: modern glam

Spacious rooms, suites, oceanfront bungalows, and a rooftop penthouse await at The Miami Beach Edition, a destination for sleek modernity and luxury lounging. As a nod to its historic architecture, the lobby features original columns clad in gilded mosaics, verdant greenery, warm candlelight, and a dramatic play of shadow and light that create an ambiance of 1940s and ’50s glamour. Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten created a culinary program inspired by South America, the Caribbean, and Spain in the supper club-like Matador Room, and an elevated food hall concept in the Market at Edition – equal parts patisserie, boulangerie, and salumeria. Two oceanfront pools, a spa and fitness center, and 70,000 square feet of beachfront invite relaxation and rejuvenation.

Mondrian South Beach: enchanting escape

Having gained admiration for its whimsical interiors by Marcel Wanders, Mondrian South Beach underwent a $20 million renovation in 2021 to expand its offerings to focus on wellness. The chic Mediterranean-inspired Baia Beach Club offers indoor and outdoor dining overlooking Biscayne Bay, where guests can enjoy cocktails, relax in cabanas, and soak up the sunset views. Additionally, the 4,100-square-foot Spa at Baia Beach Club will soothe, align, and restore the mind, body, and soul through massage therapies, sauna and steam rooms, mindful meditation and yoga classes, and a bay-view fitness center.

Courtesy of Mondrian South Beach.
Courtesy of Mondrian South Beach.

Carillon Miami Wellness Resort: seaside sanctuary

For those seeking a respite from Miami Art Week overload, this getaway in Miami Beach is synonymous with relaxation and rejuvenation. With the healing ocean at its feet, Carillon Miami Wellness Resort is a complete wellness oasis that offers customized health retreats, cutting- edge wellness technology, thermal hydrotherapies, a state-of-the-art fitness center featuring Technogym equipment, a Leonardo Rocco salon and spa, and innovative spa treatments inspired by the sea.

Courtesy of Carillon Miami.
Courtesy of Carillon Miami.

The Goodtime Hotel: good time getaway

Situated along Washington Avenue in South Beach, The Goodtime Hotel provides a fresh take on hospitality and design. A joint production between David Grutman and Pharrell Williams, with interiors designed by Ken Fulk, the property combines vintage style with modern amenities to create an escapist atmosphere. Originally built in the 1920s, the facade evokes nostalgia, while the interiors channel a mid-century tropical aesthetic. The lobby features a breezy atrium, hand-painted murals and deco details. Dining and entertainment options at Strawberry Moon, the 30,000-square-foot pool, and the cafe and outdoor terrace encourage revelry and relaxation. And guest rooms have leopard-print benches and pink rotary phones along with up-to-date comforts. By honoring the location’s history while offering innovative experiences, the hotel provides a unique and lively escape within an already iconic destination.

Courtesy of The Goodtime Hotel.
Courtesy of The Goodtime Hotel.

The Betsy Hotel: Georgian splendor

Standing out among the Art Deco buildings that dot a storied stretch of Ocean Drive, The Betsy Hotel delivers Georgian architecture, serene accommodations, and cultural connections wrapped in a boutique bow. Revitalized in 2016 by architect and preservationist Allan T. Shulman and designers Diamante Pedersoli and Carmelina Santoro, the hotel’s Colonial and Art Deco wings honor the original visions of L. Murray Dixon and Henry Hohauser. Live jazz in the Lobby Salon, poetry readings in The Writer’s Room, and docent-led art tours underscore the hotel’s commitment to the arts while a cozy collection of furnishings and natural materials will have you feeling like a guest in the home of a global traveler in the British Colonial era.

The Betsy Orb by Robin Hill and The Poetry Rail. Courtesy of The Betsy.
The Betsy Orb by Robin Hill and The Poetry Rail. Courtesy of The Betsy.

W South Beach: oceanfront oasis

W South Beach features luxe accommodations paired with world-class dining thanks to The Restaurant at W South Beach and Mr Chow. Sculptures and paintings by Damien Hirst, Taryn Simon, and others turn the hotel into a gallery and museum-inspired destination beginning with Tom Sachs’ life-size bronze sculptures of Hello Kitty, My Melody, and Miffy before one even enters the lobby. Make your way up to the spacious oceanfront suites reimagined by Urban Robot Associates and unwind on your private balcony overlooking the sea. Or recharge in the 9,000-square-foot spa and wellness sanctuary. Whether you’re seeking an art-filled escape or a lively night out, W South Beach hits the mark with its prime beachfront location, trendsetting amenities, and nonstop energy.

Courtesy of W South Beach.
Courtesy of W South Beach.

The Setai: quiet luxury

Just north of South Beach on Collins Avenue, a peaceful haven awaits. This tranquil oasis, reminiscent of a long-ago journey out East, stands ready to soothe your soul. Dine along the beachfront, with ocean waves as your soundtrack, as flavors dance across your palate at Jaya, Ocean Grill, The Bar, and the new Japanese culinary experience Japón. Stroll the surrounding streets showcasing Miami Beach’s culture, shopping, and nightlife. When you need an escape from the hustle and bustle, return to this little slice of paradise for global-inspired spa treatments at Valmont Spa. Sink into the quiet comfort, and let your spirit be restored.

Arlo Wynwood: street smart

A new boutique hotel has blossomed in the vibrant Wynwood district, bringing a fresh take on hospitality to the creative hub. Designed to embody the neighborhood’s artistic spirit, the 217-room property features an eclectic interior juxtaposing organic and modern elements. Over 250 pieces of art are showcased throughout the space, continuing Wynwood’s tradition as an open-air street art gallery. Guests can enjoy complimentary wellness activities and live music programming, along with an eclectic menu at Arlo’s Floridian brasserie, MaryGold’s, led by award-winning chef Brad Kilgore who is known for his inventive approach. By embracing the neighborhood’s bold aesthetics and expressive culture, the hotel has become a go-to choice for the creatively inclined.

Left: Courtesy of The Setai. Right: Courtesy of Arlo Wynwood.
Left: Courtesy of The Setai. Right: Courtesy of Arlo Wynwood.

This article was originally published in the Art Basel Miami Beach magazine 2023.

Published December 4, 2023.

Captions for full-bleed images: 1. Le Homard at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, served in a Je Te Mangerais Dans La Main plate by Prune Nourry and JR for Bernardaud. Photo courtesy: L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon. 2. HaSalon. Photograph by Melissa Hom.

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